Killian757

Screenshots of HH.

Thanks for the post. Question about calculating rake. In a mandatory straddle/three blind game with no ante are you basing your rake and win rate on the bb or the third blind/mandatory straddle? I've been calculating everything off of the straddle as the "big blind" with rake of 15-20bb/100 before rakeback.

Very true. If you thought BB still had some 2 pairs and sets in his range that played more passively then he can over call beating hands in your calling range and getting a good price. Where as your raising range looks very strong.

76s hand at 33:55

Intuitively, in the moment, I thought raising is going to yield a higher EV. Since the bet is 34bb and CO has 38bb behind (not much difference) the question is who is more likely to put more money in the pot. I feel the CO would be more likely since he has bet into the multiway pot twice while the BB has checked all three streets, called turn getting a good price, and all draws bricked on river. The less money CO has behind the closer it becomes to calling vs raising I would think.

This is without breaking down their ranges and checking the EV. Just typing it out to see how sound my logic is and if I'm missing a piece of the puzzle.

I've thought about it. But I'm not a fan of short stack play. Get to these points late in the match that generally your strategic options are push/fold or maybe mix in a limping range lol. But I should mix them in too. I don't play enough tournaments as is.

I wish there was a way to lock two people in a cash game for X amount of hands. Maybe have a couple stipulations where you can quit if you're down X buy ins. Or if you're broke of course. Maybe have a box that you have to check where both players have to accept a quit if earlier than the threshold. I don't know. Just brain storming haha. I just like the battle of HU play. Finding their leaks and exploiting them. Then as they adjust you found counter strategies to those adjustments. Plus you have so many options as we get deep. See how he reacts to over bets or 1/5 pot bets. See how he reacts to your c/r or your min. bet. I just find it to be less auto-pilot and more thinking and countering. Definitely more of an ego game than 6max or other formats. (coughDougPolkcough) lol

"or go punch a wall" haha

But that is a really cool video. When you spell it out that way it makes so much sense. In a vacuum my adjustments are probably ok but I lose so much EV when he quits me which I'm not thinking about at the time. So I'm sure I've sacrificed a lot of EV over the years.

I did do a couple things right. I switched to a 3x sizing and started opening about 80% of hands. Cutting out offsuit junk hands and calling his 3bets wider. But I wasn't 3betting and 4betting enough.

And I like the subtle but psychological tip he said in playing faster. Highly underrated point.

P.S. ... You are the king of links. Have a link for everything. haha

Pretty sick graphs man! Love seeing people make improvements and progress. Those two graphs together show you took accountability for your game and didn't want to go down the path you were going. So you took steps in a different direction and put in the work. It definitely shows. Congrats man. Keep improving and stay humble.

It also looks like you woke up May 1st and said "you know, I'm tired of losing. I think I'm going to start today." haha

Cheers

Everything I've been reading 678 .... Cheers man

That is good that it is that easy to transfer. I have many questions though lol

Is this a good or bad thing?
Does anyone know anything about this company?
How are the payouts?
Do they use bitcoin?
Will the card catcher/hand converter work?
Will it deter the recreational players?

I probably have more but these are what came to mind when I read the email ten minutes ago. And, please, feel free to tell me to go f* off and do my own research. haha.

Okay, so what I have found is ...

It is a shell company, under the same umbrella as Bovada. Which is good, don't need to worry because of the long standing of the company. Bad because it will have all the same buggy issues as Bovada software.

I don't know about the efficiency of the payouts but checks get one free check every FOUR months instead of one. But bitcoin deposits and withdraws are free.

Card catcher and hand converter already work with the site. May just need an update.

So the big concern will be the traffic after the move. This will split poker and sportsbetting.

Also, figuring out how to use the points on Bovada.

I would love to have 500 hands on a guy lol but I'm playing on anonymous tables. I will never get close to that. So I have a small hud with a handfull of stats to create a profile. Then adjust as I see hands showndown.

As far as gambly I meant he has wide ranges. Opening a decent amount, not folding to 3bets, not folding to flop cbets. So with that limited information I gathered he would be getting to turns and rivers with weak, wide ranges that I can put pressure on. If he wakes up with a hand or finds a call so be it. I have a stinger range and good blockers, I liked my plan.

The T turn is interestin because I made a hand and it is a very dynamic turn that I'd like to size up typically. But I already sized my flop bet to barrel over 3 streets so it was awkward stack sizes. That's where I got confused. So I didn't know if I should x/c, x/jam, jam 1.6x pot, or bet as planned. Looking back my bet is my least favorite of the options and I failed to change my plan when I made my hand on such a dynamic turn.

After 50 hands 4x was his open from all positions. But yeah I have seen those players.

You're probably right lol turn is bad for our perceived range.

I definitely think we can value bet. Hands that beat us: KT x6, QT x6, Axs x7, 98s, 87s, 76s, 65s. Hands that can bluff catch: Slow played Aces x3 (Block straight and nut flush), AsQx x3, KQ x9, KJ x9, QJ x9, AT x6, JT x6, J9 x3, T9 x2.

Lose to 23 combos, Beat 50 combos, Tie 9 combos.

If he calls with more than 6 of his bluffcatchers we profit .... I believe lol

Nice video as always

Minute 16, table 3: You decide to overbet river. I do like the overbet in the sense that he is capped for the most part. (Occasionally has a combo of AK but most of the time AK gets 3bet preflop). But I don't see very many bluffs in your range that take this line to balance out all your value hands with such a large sizing. Because of that do you still like an overbet?

Minute 26:50, table 2: You 3bet TT MP vs UTG. Do you 3bet there with TT as a standard or was it because you had player marked as fun player? It doesn't appear that you have many hands on the player. Without reads my 3bet range is polarized to QQ+ and bluffs vs a UTG range. Is this too tight?

I am assuming he raises all his 2pair+ on turn once the board gets more dynamic. Even rec/fishy players want to protect their hand so I'd expect a large lead or c/r with 2pair, sets, and straights. So with that assumption I think it is a clear call on river.

I agree with Kalupso. call > 4bet > shove.

While you are a head of both of those ranges by shoving you force them to continue with only the top of their range. Against that AK is not doing well. On very rare occasions agaisnt weak players they could level themselves into a call with AQ thinking your range is 77,88,99 heavy. But doesn't happen enough.

4betting smallish keeps their range wide, as in keeps the bluffing portion of the squeezing range in. But because of this MP will still be getting a good price to come along and you're still three ways to the flop. 4betting large has the same effect as shoving. They continue with only the top of their range. 4betting also opens the betting back up and youre not happy if either villain shoves.

This is why I lean towards a call. Will have to make some tough decisions postflop and they get to realize some of their equity but you are in position.

It really depends on how you make up villains range. Looking at it you're somewhere between a 55% favorite or a 45% dog. Since you are effectively playing for stacks you need approximately 42% equity to go with the hand before rake is taken out.

At this point I would like to have a "feel" for the player. Is he a recreational player that is comfortable at the table. As if he has put in some hours before. Or is he a rec that seems to uncomfortable, fumbling chips, acting out of turn, etc.

If I felt the player was a somewhat knowledgeable recreational player then I would probably take the lower variance line and fold now. Putting him on a range of AA, KK, QQ, TT, 99, KJs, and AKhh, AJhh as bluffs. We have 45% equity vs that range and it would be close to a break even call.

If I felt he wasn't the most experienced recreational player/uncomfortable at the table then you might be able to add in some over played AQ, QJs, or T9s. Then you become the slight favorite with 55% equity making it a profitable call.

I agree with everyone that raising this flop is weird because our only value range is 16 combos of JT. And the only way to maybe balance that is use JJ/TT as a bluff. But I feel those hands squeeze preflop with a high frequency. So you won't be balanced by raising here.

But I think we can deviate from that as it is live play and this smashes a tight PFR's range. And his bet size (especially in live play) is indicative of a hand he likes and wants to go with before the board changes. Any A, K, or Q on the turn slows us down and a J or T slows him down. So I like raising flop. And smallish size to leave him room to come back over the top.

I think you have two options. You can either cbet the flop, turn, and river or just check/give up.

You have a solid, tight image and a range advantage so you should have a decent amount of fold equity.

The problems are: the weak one pair hands are not folding to one or two bets, one or two of them have shorter stacks in a bloated pot so they could feel "committed" by the turn, you could easily get multiple calls on the flop so firing a second barrel doesn't look as appealing, you can still run into a hand as they all have 3x and pocket fives in their ranges.

So you have to hope to get one maybe two calls on the flop, turn equity or a scare card, hope its not one of the short stacks who feels "committed", and hope you don't run into a nutted hand. Too many things have to go right in my opinion so I'd elect to check/give up. Maybe rep an ace or king on turn if it checks through. Even then you might have to fire turn and river.

Definitely. I wasn't saying GTO doesn't use small bet sizings. I just mean if the game could be solved perfectly it I don't think it would use a 1/3 pot size bet with 100% range for most board textures. I think it would have a mixed strategy with various bet sizes and even some checks with our range. But obviously the game isn't solved to that point and our brains couldn't process that much information even if it was. So in practice the 1/3 psb with our entire range works great for all reasons everyone has stated. As well as simplifying a strategy that approaches GTO.

I apologize if this is going to seem a bit scatter-brained.

Defining a hand as a "bluff" or as a "value bet" gets kind of dicey the further we are from the river in practice. Because we know all hands (in most situations) have at least some equity. It is not till the river that we can clearly define hands as value bets/bluffs/bluff catchers.

In MoP they define a value bet as any hand that you are going to continue with on later streets and a bluff as any hand that you are betting now and giving up at any point later in the hand. So any hand that you plan to bluff with on the turn or on the river is considered a value bet on the flop. And any hand that you plan to use as a bluff on river is considered a value bet on flop and turn. Even though it may seem like you have a lot of "bluffs" when cbetting flop the only bluffs you have are the hands you elect to cbet once. Everything else should be considered a value bet when balancing on earlier streets. This is so that you get to the river with an adequate number of bluffs in relation to your value bets.

The small cbet sizing with most/all of our range is an exploitative line. Against a "perfect" GTO player I don't think this sizing with this frequency would be used. That's not to say it shouldn't be used. As Nutcracker and others have said, it is going to be a profitable bet in the long run as players won't be defending 75%+ of their range in single raised pots. It is also effective in that it keeps our range wide and allows us to have enough bluffs on turns and rivers so we can stay balanced.

MoP talks about betting the same size, or geometrical growth of the pot, so that we can be all in by the river. This is because we want to maximize our profit. The game, or poker, favors and is slightly profitable for the clairvoyant player (the player with the betting lead). Against a perfectly balanced GTO player the non-clairvoyant player (or the bluff-catcher) is break-even whether he calls or folds. As the preflop raiser or 3better we are typically going to have the stronger range. So we will be doing the betting. We will either be value betting or bluffing. Our opponent will have to "guess" and bluff-catch. By betting the same size on every street we are able to get all in by the river and give the opponent the maximum number of opportunities to make a mistake.

Obviously this is a very simplified. On certain board textures or situations it may not be the case. So its really going to be up to you to figure out what situation calls for what bet sizing. Hope this cleared up some stuff.

Must not be playing much PLO with just 10 buy-ins. lol :P

I can see how the 2x open can be effective in the zone games as players really play their tight ranges and don't adjust, just fast fold and on to the next. But I always interpreted those min opens as someone with wide ranges and trying to steal from all positions. So I end up attacking those players very liberally pre and post flop lol

I've heard from a lot of the high stakes guys that they wish they had put more time into studying/theory rather than grinding when coming up through the ranks.

From my observations I would agree with this. A lot of your sessions are determined by your PLO hands. The rest of the mix are limit games, split pot games, and NLHE. The limit games won't win/lose much per hand. If you have common sense you can chop a lot of pots in the Hi-lo games. (Because of this the fun players last longer in the split pot games). And in NLHE the majority of the players play tight/straight-forward because if they really wanted to play NLHE they would go play NLHE. lol PLO is the one game that stands out in that mix imo.