Hokunali
5 points
Table 2 37:30 Ah7hAs5s:
Phil, this particular hand, I was wondering why would you bet 20% into an already bloated pot, giving him a chance to hit a Q or a K, or a gut-shot, all of which he could be representing reasonably well? I would think it's more sensible to bet at least 40% of the pot (i.e. $4,000 or so), but obviously I'm not the expert here.
Second, why wouldn't you want to lead the turn, especially considering that you were check-calling? It would not give him a chance to bluff you (potentially) on the turn and river? Feels like it would be very hard to float on the turn by calling another $6,000 or so for him, and it would help you narrow his range as well.
thanks
April 1, 2015 | 7:24 p.m.
I think you have to bet/call to protect your hand. If a villain has a big wrap, and picks up a flush draw, he could play it the same way too. If you check, you give that hand a chance to draw for free. He never has AA here, and the only hand that has u in a really bad shape is QQ. I think if you don't bet to protect your hand, and don't bet call it off, you become way too exploitative. Unfortunate to run into top set here...
Sept. 12, 2014 | 9:16 p.m.
I'd lead the flop probably 75% of the time, and sometimes I'd check the flop to not cap my range. If someone would bet the flop, I'd probably just call, and wait for safe turn to either lead the turn, or check raise it. In other words, I want to have the nuts in my range to sometimes check the flop.
July 17, 2014 | 2:11 p.m.
See, I'm not sure about my play on turn. I think flatting here can make it easy for the villain to play the river perfectly. If a club, or diamond hits, he can make a sizable bet and have me fold. If I shove all in on turn, then it prevents me from being bluffed on the river. Also, a hand like two flush draw might've played this hand the same way (referring to the villain), and by shoving the turn (and getting called), I'd be in good shape as long as neither flush hits. Also, the nuts straight plus one of the flush draws would also play it the same way. Unless the river is a brick, I end up folding to a sizeable bet on the river (either flush plus the board pairing), so all the more reason to shove on the turn?
July 16, 2014 | 4:55 p.m.
10/10 25 (straddle) live game
I’m
most interested hearing thoughts about my play on turn, though flop play is
also certainly debatable. UTG is not an
unreasonably aggressive player, but so far won most of his pots without a
showdown.
BN: $4604.87
SB: $4163.80
BB: $4300 (Hero)
UTG: $5600.20
HJ: $1684
CO:
$6887.80
Preflop($300) (6 Players)
Hero was dealt 4h 5d 7s 9h
HJ folds, CO raises
to $80, BN folds, SB folds, Hero calls
$80, UTG calls $80, HJ calls $80
Flop($340.00) 3d 6d 7c (4 Players)
Hero checks, UTG checks, HJ checks, CO checks
Turn($340.00) 3d 6d 7c KC(4 Players)
Hero bets $300, UTG raises
to $1240, HJ folds, CO folds, Hero calls $1240
River
($2820.00) 3d 6d 7c KC 3s(2 Players)
Hero checks, CO bets
$2800 Hero?
July 15, 2014 | 6:34 p.m.
Good video Janne - great job explaining your strategy with every hand that matters.
Question about what happened on 25th minute, where you turned broadway (the nuts) and chose to flatten. My concern is what happen if the villain has either (a) a set, or (b) two pair and a guttie kind of hand. In that case, you are letting him draw for free, and if the board pairs, your hand becomes a bluff-catcher. If you raise the turn, there is an argument that both of these hands may call you, thus paying for their draws. You would get all the air hands to fold, but I doubt you'd be getting much action from them on the river anyways. And if the board bricks off on river, I'm not convinced that they would barrel, as they have showdown value and may just check it down. Not hating at all your play here (certainly tricky), just trying to understand your thought process.
July 10, 2014 | 5:33 p.m.
Good luck with day 2 of the BOFOD Phil!
June 30, 2014 | 3:35 p.m.
35:26, top left table
So normally I agree/understand most of your plays Phil, but how can you check here? Very few hands that would check raise you on flop (set or maybe nut flush draw), so why not build the pot on flop? This way if you do improve on turn, and someone else either continues to chase and/or hit the same straight as you, you'd stand to take down a huge pot by the river. Please elaborate on your thoughts here.
June 24, 2014 | 6:49 p.m.
Nice job on being thorough with your explanations.
June 12, 2014 | 10:25 p.m.
Are there any videos for the 'essential' videos that talk/analyze tough spots? Most of the stuff in the few essential videos I've seen is standard more or less, it's the ability to make correct decisions in tough spots that I'd be most interested from a learning perspective. Thanks.
p.s. if the answer is that 'you got to join the elite membership for the more advanced stuff' that's fine too, just need to get clarity regarding expectations here
April 7, 2014 | 5:05 p.m.
I try to run it once more often than not. I've noticed that if I usually run it twice, people shove in to me with flush draws and weaker hands in general with greater frequency, figuring they'll either get me to fold, or in the worst case, they'll have 2 shots to hit on river. So running it twice allows opponents to turn up pressure on me; since I often do have reasonable fold equity. By running it only once, well, now there is only 1 card that can save them in case I don't fold, so people think twice before shoving.
18:50 KK1010 single suited on the button. How do you just flat there?!
If you're not potting with this hand preflop on the button, then what are you potting it with??
April 13, 2015 | 5:01 p.m.