This was a good video thanks a lot. More of this stuff please. GTO concepts broken down and then related to real gaming conditions and exploitative thought processes. The concept that the bluff catcher could only beat my opponents bluffs and never his value combos was something I always struggled with before. This never quite made sense to me until it was broken down like this. I always kind of thought "What does it matter if my bluff catcher beat some of his value combos that just makes it a better bluff catcher doesn't it?" Now I see that that wasn't actual bluff catching but merely calling a hand that maximizes it's EV better in my calling range rather than my betting range.
Oh that makes for a good question then I guess. If you have hands in your range that maximize their value by checking and calling vs betting does this mean that you need less bluff catchers in your range that have an EV of zero? Or does this just mean that our opponent was unbalanced with his value betting range in the size they chose?
I'm not quite sure what you're asking but if the highest EV option for a particular hand is to check/call (e.g. KK on A5923) then an optimal player always takes the most +EV line. Our opponent could be either unbalanced or balanced (may not change our strategy).
Oh well before I saw this I sort of thought that hands that we checked and called which had a greater EV than leading out were essentially functioning as our bluff catchers. After watching this unless I misunderstood the material only hands which are indifferent to calling or folding can be classified as bluff catchers. Assuming I understand this correctly if we meet our minimum defense frequency partially with hands that have some EV when we check and call then we need less hands in our range that have zero EV as a call and thus need less bluff catchers assuming of course that a bluff catcher can only have zero EV when called.
Great vedio!~ I was wondering, on straddle games such as 248, what if most of the opponents just buy in 400 chips, in my point of view, it's just 50bb at most, that makes our full stake become meaningless. My questions are:
What's your main adjustment in this situation?
Should I learn how to play short stake skill for this? Hands like AQ, KQ, 77 got 4bet mostly fold in 100bb stake size, should we be more willing to get it in preflop, and so on..
By the way, Thanks for your reply on the question should we buy in deep stake to play, it helps a lot.
You definitely have to tighten up the raising range a bit if you are being aggressively 3bet by the short stacks as you wont be able to defend enough ip as stack sizes are too short
If the shorties are passive then of course you can steal freely :)
Loading 9 Comments...
Thanks for great video man, super helpful stuff
This was a good video thanks a lot. More of this stuff please. GTO concepts broken down and then related to real gaming conditions and exploitative thought processes. The concept that the bluff catcher could only beat my opponents bluffs and never his value combos was something I always struggled with before. This never quite made sense to me until it was broken down like this. I always kind of thought "What does it matter if my bluff catcher beat some of his value combos that just makes it a better bluff catcher doesn't it?" Now I see that that wasn't actual bluff catching but merely calling a hand that maximizes it's EV better in my calling range rather than my betting range.
Thanks for the feedback! Will do more such stuff in future.
Oh that makes for a good question then I guess. If you have hands in your range that maximize their value by checking and calling vs betting does this mean that you need less bluff catchers in your range that have an EV of zero? Or does this just mean that our opponent was unbalanced with his value betting range in the size they chose?
I'm not quite sure what you're asking but if the highest EV option for a particular hand is to check/call (e.g. KK on A5923) then an optimal player always takes the most +EV line. Our opponent could be either unbalanced or balanced (may not change our strategy).
Oh well before I saw this I sort of thought that hands that we checked and called which had a greater EV than leading out were essentially functioning as our bluff catchers. After watching this unless I misunderstood the material only hands which are indifferent to calling or folding can be classified as bluff catchers. Assuming I understand this correctly if we meet our minimum defense frequency partially with hands that have some EV when we check and call then we need less hands in our range that have zero EV as a call and thus need less bluff catchers assuming of course that a bluff catcher can only have zero EV when called.
Great vedio!~ I was wondering, on straddle games such as 248, what if most of the opponents just buy in 400 chips, in my point of view, it's just 50bb at most, that makes our full stake become meaningless. My questions are:
What's your main adjustment in this situation?
Should I learn how to play short stake skill for this? Hands like AQ, KQ, 77 got 4bet mostly fold in 100bb stake size, should we be more willing to get it in preflop, and so on..
By the way, Thanks for your reply on the question should we buy in deep stake to play, it helps a lot.
You definitely have to tighten up the raising range a bit if you are being aggressively 3bet by the short stacks as you wont be able to defend enough ip as stack sizes are too short
If the shorties are passive then of course you can steal freely :)
Wow awesome video!!!!I love it
Be the first to add a comment
You must upgrade your account to leave a comment.