I'm not sure if I understand your 1st question correctly.
The rule of thumb is usually, the bigger we bet, the lower our frequency.
So if we decide to CBet 75% on KJ7s and 50% on Q73r, then I'm pretty sure we end up CBetting more on Q73r.
The additional EV we gain by having 2 sizings in place is very marginal but it makes our overall strategy way more complex when splitting our sizing. It's therefore much more recommendable to go for 1 sizing (either small or big, thats up to you) and try to apply the ranges correctly.
I really likes the way you displayed the wet board right next to the dry board. That makes things so much easier to understand.
At 10:25 it shows us chking tt (sets and 2pr) more on the wet board when we have no straight blockers. Are we just basically drawing to a safe turn? With 77 (sets and 2pr) on the dry board we always bet as we don't fear many turns, but wouldn't that also make 77 a good hand to slowplay sometimes?
With our weaker sets and no back-up on wet boards, the idea behind checking back is indeed to look for equity shifting Turns because our playability when betting and geting called or raised is not to great on many nut-changing Turns.
With mid and low sets on dry boards, we just push so much more equity with all our sets against all Toppair/Overpair kinda hands which is why we should go for a much more aggressive line as compared to mid/low sets on wet boards.
Excellent video. I'm really enjoying this series that you've produced.
Coincidentally, after I first watched it. I was able to immediately use the information from the video at the table. KT6 has to be one of the most analyzed boards in PLO and in my opinion, it was a perfect example to use.
I'd have really liked to see how the "air" range on QT7r is split between:
- total junk
- Blockers but no draw better than a gutshot
- OESD (which will also have blockers)
- wraps
I'm guessing that the wraps and the blocker hands prefer to bet, and the complete junk and OESD type hands prefer checking back, but this would be good to confirm.
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How do you see incorporating bet sizing into the CBet %'s?
ie...Bigger bet sizing on KJ7 flushdraw vs Q73 rainbow...and how important to have 1 bet size for full range vs 2 or more bet sizes?
Hey 1974blue !
I'm not sure if I understand your 1st question correctly.
The rule of thumb is usually, the bigger we bet, the lower our frequency.
So if we decide to CBet 75% on KJ7s and 50% on Q73r, then I'm pretty sure we end up CBetting more on Q73r.
The additional EV we gain by having 2 sizings in place is very marginal but it makes our overall strategy way more complex when splitting our sizing. It's therefore much more recommendable to go for 1 sizing (either small or big, thats up to you) and try to apply the ranges correctly.
I hope that answered your question :D
Happy New Year,
Emty
Thanks Emty. That answers it!
Great video Emty!
I really likes the way you displayed the wet board right next to the dry board. That makes things so much easier to understand.
At 10:25 it shows us chking tt (sets and 2pr) more on the wet board when we have no straight blockers. Are we just basically drawing to a safe turn? With 77 (sets and 2pr) on the dry board we always bet as we don't fear many turns, but wouldn't that also make 77 a good hand to slowplay sometimes?
Thanks!
Hey SoundSpeed !
With our weaker sets and no back-up on wet boards, the idea behind checking back is indeed to look for equity shifting Turns because our playability when betting and geting called or raised is not to great on many nut-changing Turns.
With mid and low sets on dry boards, we just push so much more equity with all our sets against all Toppair/Overpair kinda hands which is why we should go for a much more aggressive line as compared to mid/low sets on wet boards.
Best,
Emty
Excellent video. I'm really enjoying this series that you've produced.
Coincidentally, after I first watched it. I was able to immediately use the information from the video at the table. KT6 has to be one of the most analyzed boards in PLO and in my opinion, it was a perfect example to use.
Hey steve0580 !
Great to hear that you were immediately capable to apply the learned concepts in your game :)
Best,
Emty
The hand categorizations seem a bit silly when “air” can include both a wrap + NFD and no pair no draw
I'd have really liked to see how the "air" range on QT7r is split between:
- total junk
- Blockers but no draw better than a gutshot
- OESD (which will also have blockers)
- wraps
I'm guessing that the wraps and the blocker hands prefer to bet, and the complete junk and OESD type hands prefer checking back, but this would be good to confirm.
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