Great video and excited to give the game a go. First off I was hoping you could help me with a quick practical question; roughly how many buy ins do you need to be rolled properly for this sort of game? Would love to get into it but I imagine the variance is significantly greater than holdem so wouldn't want to underestimate it and set my roll on fire.
Aside from that theory wise the idea of bluffing once you have one side of the board locked up is pretty intuitive once you laid out the logic for it. What I was wondering about is how do you play strong two sided draws both in and out of position? Say on a board like 9s8s2x where we've opened the button and they've defended the bb and we have smth like AsJsTx3x. I'm kind of assuming we just want to generate aggression with these hands on the idea that it's very likely we have half the board on turn and can continue denying equity from our opponent? How would this change as the draws become a bit less nuttish like say Ax7s6s5x? Here we're drawing to hands which will be in that situation you described where if we put in too much money we'll start making our opponents range too strong on at least one side and cap ourselves to winning at most half the pot. I feel like the potential to generate enough pressure that we fold some dominating draws on the turn and then our opponent will possibly call more sdv based stuff so we can hit and scoop against such as a hand like 88 gives us some incentive to play these hands aggressively despite the other possibilities so would love to get some of your insight here.
Thanks for the compliment on the video! I’m excited to introduce the game to a new audience.
Great question! Playing two strong draws is a different circumstance. The hand you describe is an absolute monster in 4 card H/L, but you might not want to get too carried away in 6card, at least not yet! While the draw has tons of equity, there are still bad turn cards for us. Anything that pairs the board, an offsuit K… what will your plan be if the turn is an ace or a trey preventing you from making a low? This is why in the video I discussed the importance of having a ‘backup’ low in PLO6. How much action you want is very situational, of course, and the most important thing is stack sizing. With a deep stack in position you want to generate aggression as you said, and then ‘play poker’ on the turn and river, getting max value or finding bluffing spots, and often folding, whichever is appropriate. But with a medium stack, this hand will be awkward if the turn is a blank or brings a backdoor flush.
In the second example, you are correct that by playing too strong you are going to limit your opponent’s range to hands that dominate you, at least on one side. By far the most important aspect of H/L is to play hands that scoop or quarter your opponent, and to avoid being scooped! With Ax7s6s5x I would want to see a turn, and A5 has a chance of winning the low in 4 card; a trey or four improve your low and the other low cards make you a straight! But in PLO6 you need to be extremely cautious. It would be correct to either bet or check the flop, and see how the turn affects our opponent's range. You also have to ask yourself, when we do make our hand, is our opponent going to pay off our 7 high flush with worse, or a worse low?
Glad to see O8 content, thanks for bringing it in Kevin!
Hand 2 @20:38. I wonder about having a larger size on this turn (not necessarily pot). If we start spliting our range OTT, 4d is a decisive card. Having 4c blocks a touch of improves from OOP and not having any diamond makes OOP more likely to continue vs larger sizings. If IP has 53 (with diamonds or not) he has incentive to bet larger since it is an uncounterfeitable low draw and the nut high. Probably not high enough to scare away AA+low/AdXd+low but to exploit how weak in general OOP range is when he checks OOP on this turn that counterfeits the flop nut low. I agree with river sizing, OOP probably only calls flush+63 and putting maximum pressure on that seems the right play.
Hand 3 @29:03. Probably a hand like A6554 (hand is good enough for the high) would perform much better than A662 as a bluff. No flush 62 would be a better candidate to raise vs somewhat weak OOP range but having two 5's does much more in blocking effects than 62.
These 5card/6card formats are a lot of fun when you have somebody vouching for the integrity of the game (and you as a good player winning as a consequence after a decent sample). Otherwise, there is no way to know whether you're just running poorly or colluded against.
In the first hand, I'm wondering do we ever take the passive, check/call line in favor of bet/folding?
Being a 6 card game, SRP 3-way, I'd imagine we should be a little weary of some A3xxxx combos.
Check-calling or having it checked behind both seem fairly favorable. We get a free card to our low and potentially good straight draws and get to re-evaluate on turn, or check and keep the pot more manageable in a spot where we don't want to get in a huge battle with the button..
Kevin Rabichow I think these series where you bring on other players and present different games are great. I enjoy big o and plo8 and this video has a lot of crossover. Peter did a great job explaining concepts.
Any chance we can get a part 2 to this or perhaps a another game like stud8, 2-7 td or badugi?
31:30 if we only had the bare nut low draw does peter ever chk that back sometimes?
5 card High Low game is pretty big here. So glad to see high hand consideration is taken seriously with low hand. Like to see more episodes of this game preferably a 5 card one.
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Great video and excited to give the game a go. First off I was hoping you could help me with a quick practical question; roughly how many buy ins do you need to be rolled properly for this sort of game? Would love to get into it but I imagine the variance is significantly greater than holdem so wouldn't want to underestimate it and set my roll on fire.
Aside from that theory wise the idea of bluffing once you have one side of the board locked up is pretty intuitive once you laid out the logic for it. What I was wondering about is how do you play strong two sided draws both in and out of position? Say on a board like 9s8s2x where we've opened the button and they've defended the bb and we have smth like AsJsTx3x. I'm kind of assuming we just want to generate aggression with these hands on the idea that it's very likely we have half the board on turn and can continue denying equity from our opponent? How would this change as the draws become a bit less nuttish like say Ax7s6s5x? Here we're drawing to hands which will be in that situation you described where if we put in too much money we'll start making our opponents range too strong on at least one side and cap ourselves to winning at most half the pot. I feel like the potential to generate enough pressure that we fold some dominating draws on the turn and then our opponent will possibly call more sdv based stuff so we can hit and scoop against such as a hand like 88 gives us some incentive to play these hands aggressively despite the other possibilities so would love to get some of your insight here.
From Peter:
Thanks for the compliment on the video! I’m excited to introduce the game to a new audience.
Great question! Playing two strong draws is a different circumstance. The hand you describe is an absolute monster in 4 card H/L, but you might not want to get too carried away in 6card, at least not yet! While the draw has tons of equity, there are still bad turn cards for us. Anything that pairs the board, an offsuit K… what will your plan be if the turn is an ace or a trey preventing you from making a low? This is why in the video I discussed the importance of having a ‘backup’ low in PLO6. How much action you want is very situational, of course, and the most important thing is stack sizing. With a deep stack in position you want to generate aggression as you said, and then ‘play poker’ on the turn and river, getting max value or finding bluffing spots, and often folding, whichever is appropriate. But with a medium stack, this hand will be awkward if the turn is a blank or brings a backdoor flush.
In the second example, you are correct that by playing too strong you are going to limit your opponent’s range to hands that dominate you, at least on one side. By far the most important aspect of H/L is to play hands that scoop or quarter your opponent, and to avoid being scooped! With Ax7s6s5x I would want to see a turn, and A5 has a chance of winning the low in 4 card; a trey or four improve your low and the other low cards make you a straight! But in PLO6 you need to be extremely cautious. It would be correct to either bet or check the flop, and see how the turn affects our opponent's range. You also have to ask yourself, when we do make our hand, is our opponent going to pay off our 7 high flush with worse, or a worse low?
Glad to see O8 content, thanks for bringing it in Kevin!
Hand 2 @20:38. I wonder about having a larger size on this turn (not necessarily pot). If we start spliting our range OTT, 4d is a decisive card. Having 4c blocks a touch of improves from OOP and not having any diamond makes OOP more likely to continue vs larger sizings. If IP has 53 (with diamonds or not) he has incentive to bet larger since it is an uncounterfeitable low draw and the nut high. Probably not high enough to scare away AA+low/AdXd+low but to exploit how weak in general OOP range is when he checks OOP on this turn that counterfeits the flop nut low. I agree with river sizing, OOP probably only calls flush+63 and putting maximum pressure on that seems the right play.
Hand 3 @29:03. Probably a hand like A6554 (hand is good enough for the high) would perform much better than A662 as a bluff. No flush 62 would be a better candidate to raise vs somewhat weak OOP range but having two 5's does much more in blocking effects than 62.
These 5card/6card formats are a lot of fun when you have somebody vouching for the integrity of the game (and you as a good player winning as a consequence after a decent sample). Otherwise, there is no way to know whether you're just running poorly or colluded against.
Would love to see some videos on 6 card Omaha high only. It’s very popular in the UK
In the first hand, I'm wondering do we ever take the passive, check/call line in favor of bet/folding?
Being a 6 card game, SRP 3-way, I'd imagine we should be a little weary of some A3xxxx combos.
Check-calling or having it checked behind both seem fairly favorable. We get a free card to our low and potentially good straight draws and get to re-evaluate on turn, or check and keep the pot more manageable in a spot where we don't want to get in a huge battle with the button..
Kevin Rabichow I think these series where you bring on other players and present different games are great. I enjoy big o and plo8 and this video has a lot of crossover. Peter did a great job explaining concepts.
Any chance we can get a part 2 to this or perhaps a another game like stud8, 2-7 td or badugi?
31:30 if we only had the bare nut low draw does peter ever chk that back sometimes?
Thanks!
5 card High Low game is pretty big here. So glad to see high hand consideration is taken seriously with low hand. Like to see more episodes of this game preferably a 5 card one.
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