$500 Zoom Session and Mid Year Review
Posted by Gary Chappell
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please excuse the sniffing, i was suffering from a cold!
Hi, nice results and great content plan. I like your live play videos and the way you explain your thought process. The idea of an intro, main body and conclusion can organize it even better!
KK vs 99 hand around 44 mins. You expect to mostly lose when getting called and said it's fine because we can have some bluffs that want to shove here. Shouldn't we be building our range around value hands, rather than bluffs? If we expect to "mostly lose when called' then KK is clearly not strong enough to value bet for this sizing, and if that's due to our opponent over folding then the correct exploitative adjustment should simply to over bluff without changing our value threshold?
I do agree that a block is better for this region of hand strength especially given your read of his range.
Would you be implementing 2 sizes on this river or choose one of the following:
1. Shove with say sets+ for value and bluffs like KQ and Axs as you mentioned and check with hands like KK which might face a tough decision on the river.
2. Block bet with a wider range that includes hands like KK for value and our bluffs.
I think we don't lose value with our nuts if we only block and still get folds from his missed draws and draws with weak pair. He may still hero fold a J sometimes too.
Would love to hear your thoughts on the above.
KK vs 99 - my opponent has plenty of Jx. I said I mostly lose because I don't think Jx always calls, and neither does hand like A5/76 etc. But i'm ahead of his range here so think value betting is fine. Maybe block was better though.
Thoughts on the KK hand where u lost to a set of 99. From my limited study of oop play in single raised pots, mainly utg vs button. I've noticed that these overpair checraises are fairly infrequent on these rainbow high middling card + 2 low card flops. Moreover the low frequency times this line is taken in these cases the reason why shoving your overpair on the river is valid is because in the button vs utg case they still have a decent frequency of overpairs slowplayed preflop (QQ in the J high board case and JJ-QQ on the T high board case) and strong top pair hands that are forced to call off. in addition in these sims button is slowplaying their sets at a very low frequency on the connected flushdraw turns so your overpair has 82% equity on the river vs around 68% if the button slow plays all his sets.
For the button vs utg case after nodelocking slowplays and removing a few combos of dominated calling hands from buttons range the strategy shifts to exclusively blocking with value hands such as sets and the overpairs and overbluffing with the shove size like crazy, shoving with set blockers and other random airballs that don't double block the missed flush draws. After we block VS a shove basically mixing folds with our overpairs and callng sets.
The reason why the overpairs get checkraised at such a low frequency is mostly because buttons range is so tight and strong that if we crate a situation where all the money goes in by the river if button slowplays his sets 75-80% of his calling range will be a set/straight. Also interesting that on turns and rivers where a flop low card pairs reducing buttons set combos oop can start donking and checraising/playing for stacks fairly liberally.
As far as the CO vs Button scenario, if I remember correctly from upswing aggregated reports, our aggressiveness is way lower then utg vs BU because our range is so much wider while buttons remains extremely snug. This makes me think that in these situations we need to reduce our overpair checkraises even further to protect our K/Q high backdoor floats we are forced to make and to avoid leaving our check call range completely gutted. This idea is similar to button vs BB in low/ middling connected boards where the lower and more connected the board/ the more high card airballs we have, the farther down the overpair chain we go to find checkbacks to protect the airball overcard hands that we can't cbet at a high frequency.
These are just some thoughts, obviously the stuff i looked at isn't the exact situation and I don't play in your games so wouldn't know what the optimal way of playing this hand would be
what rng app is that?
starshelper
It looks like the starshelper rng box to me
Hi whats the difference between yellow and orange regs chaps ? good video
not much tbh, wont go into detail as not really relevant
Great video. I think showing RNG with your action is really important since we can know frequency. I definitely prefer your video.
20minute 1st table, 99 facing 4bet. You get 28% equity to call vs that size, you mentioned later that will continue with TT+ KQs+. What about T9s for example and A5s ?
yeah 99 is normally a continue here, and arguably better than TT as we unblock some possible 4B bluffs such as ATs/KTs, and the overpairs/underpairs is irrelevant as TT never 4Bs this spot.
If people are 4Bing enough (which they should be vs bigger 3B size) then this becomes a call, albeit against the large 4B sizing. T9s & JTs I would think are low freq calls here, especially against this size. A5s would be an ok 5B bluff shove provided villain has enough bluffs, otherwise its a fold given the size imo.
At the 25 min mark you elected to flat call 88 in SB because the villain uses a large 4 bet sizing in his strategy which puts you in a tough spot. On this 662 board, what are you really repping in this small blind cold call range besides 88 and 99? Doesn't seem like you have anything else in your cold call range and open yourself up for easy 3 bet.
Some suited broadways and Ax, and I may call 67s, 65s against this type of player. But tbh that doesn’t really matter against an opponent who doesn’t think about poker in ranges but their own hand strength.
At 20.00 you check back three streets vs someone you describe as a tough opponent and win with K high vs his 85s which didn't bluff. The board was J44Q3.
I would always bluff in his shoes, and would make a note that he's not fighting enough for small pots if I saw this showdown, which would make me bluffcatch less vs him.
Am I misunderstanding this spot? Maybe the BB just has to defend so many hands that he can't bluff them all, were you surprised to see 8 high check it down here, and am I too aggro if I bluff everything T high and worse in his shoes?
I was surprised yes. I think understanding your opponent and pool tendencies will help make a decision. Then you need to classify which hands are best for 1 street bluffs, and 2 street bluffs. Those for 2 streets are hands blocking some of opponents strong value, and unblocking some instant folds, eg draws.
Hey Gary, nice video!!
At 43:00 you decide to 5bet AA vs UTG.
Don't you think that it plays better to call our whole range that wants to continue against a 4bet as deep and at these positions??
I mean, the only hand that you wanna go broke with MPvsUTG 200bb deep is AA, so yes you can still balance with some A5s or AKo, but don't we get more mistakes postflop out of our opponents by calling here?
Yeah you’re probably right and in reality I think this is AA heavy with occasional bluff. Having AA in call 4B range is important to balance/protect entire range that just wants to flat.
Hey chaps,
nice video again.
@34:20 you go for a bet 30% on the river. is this sizing more of an exploit? ive been using more 1/2pot-overbet sizings on the river from my limited work with solvers. if it is, what factors let us stray from theory here? and if it is not, what hands should we look to be filling out this range with?
thamls
yeah it would be partly explo. with my bluffs looking to get folds from missed flush draws, A highs, some small pocket pairs/4x. and i'd include some hands that block everything, eg QJ, maybe to induce bluffs or definitely raises from strong Jx.
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