I don't like this as you give hands like K9 and 99 a chance to lose less money on scary turns. I'd just check/pot to $17.25 (I think that's correct) and jam most every turn card - you're not so deep that this is gonna be a problem (you will have nearly half effective stacks in if BB calls).

If you had a lower set this would be a more interesting play, but with top set it's too much of a risk imo, especially against loose idiots who are more likely than most to call with stupid s*** here. As a general rule, when top set is the nuts on a wet board you're better off putting the money in than getting tricky.

I think you'll want to lead the flop here.  It's a 4-way pot, and you're blocking hands like top 2 pair.  You're not that likely to see anyone betting light here, so just lead out yourself imo.  You certainly don't want to give away any free cards here.

If anyone has anything strong you're likely to get raised, which is ideal for you in this case since you can just get it in and avoid having to play turns and rivers oop.

As played, I think you're getting too fancy.  Just make it as big as you can while you still have the best hand.

Don't slowplay top set in a multiway pot that the opposition expresses interest in. There are spots to slowplay the nuts, but this is not one. You are obviously never unhappy getting it in with nut top set (lower sets is a totally different story), and when your c/r gets called you have at least half the effective stack in (depending on who calls). That means potting any turn is at worst a small mistake (which you may or may not want to improve on by checking some turns).

If you check this flop, it should be to check-raise and shovel as much money in as you can. Leading is of course also fine, and maybe preferable (you don't offer a free card and can get the option to 3-bet). But if you think someone will bet, go for the c/r.

To add, ppl pay off huge with solid hands in end  if board comes that your set holds , because they cant put  a read that you had top set on flop on drawy board that you didnt raise

If I have a top set I really would like max value for it, and tho it is a plus EV to shove it, its not significant at all, 

for example

http://propokertools.com/simulations/show?b=KsTs7h&g=oh&h1=KK%2A%2A&h2=AsQsJ9&s=generic

i dont think flipping my high set has value i want to gain from my top set

AAAAAAAAGh my dog is NOT smelly !!! as one 

as 2~ i know there re downsides but being a good player means manage through postflop play on various streets as well, i dont wanna do easier thing just cause its easier and i wont have headache decisions after, i want more value ( PS~ being a good player~ i wasnt reffering i am one, but thats what i wanna try to become, and i dont think u gonna get there easy ways and shortcuts :P

i cant do the complicated per street value EV comaration, 

yes everyone would avoid difficult spot, but point is to maximise gain, and i think i can gain more with my top set then 50 percent flip....

if someone could do maths for different ev values in diff turn rvr ( including what we gain out of folding, what we gain when we get there outcomes compared to flippin  flop would be nice

im not sure im right, but i kinda want more then 50 percent out of topset

o i always have faith :D but here i would really like to see some play simulation EV;s

Okay, you wanna know exactly how damned hard we crush potential ranges here, allow me:

Against a very tight range that continues of (99, 88, QJT:cc, KQJ9, KQT9, KJT9, K9:cc):50%, we are 77%. If we add in nut clubs, we are 71%. Given he probably puts it in w/ some of his nut club draws, we probably fall somewhere in between those two figures. You will note that I'm giving him credit for hero-folding naked top two here.

Even if we expand his range in a way that is unfavorable to us by adding in every combo draw from T7:cc upwards, every nut flush draw, and every wrap from T76 upwards whilst continuing to exclude naked top two, we are still 65% and destroying him.

There is simply no conceivable range here against which you are worse than 65% and in reality you could have in excess of 70% equity. Not stacking off here is wrong. Plain and simple.

:) Thank you Tom , but its standard play option and play line everyone is taking

I just am interested not in play simulation of what everyone play line is, but other play option

For example, we check the flop and get on turn * we didnt stack off with reraise ) and we  now :

see certain number of cards that are lets say safe for us and go for check raise, and how much does that improve our equity versus stacking off on flop ( double?)

see certain number of flush  and str8 cards that opponent  raises for value ( unsuspecting set in hand ,so we get decent price to see rvr and look for paired board in which case we can gain some value in certain percentage or 

opponent pot bets so we jus fold, last 2 cases of folding minimise our loss for certain ammount ( unlike stacking of ) and safe cards maximise our gain 

so i wondered what would be exact and overoll EV of that ...is it bigger then standard get it in?

im arguing cause i DONT know and  everyone is against play line i suggested, but noone actually knows or shows EV for that ( EV of stacking of being undoubdedly positive..but other option .. beside saying standard  i d like to know does it have its merits  in term of numbers, or im just plain wrong

i know i can be such a nuisance at times...sorries :S

This is a clear x/r as people have said, and I think potting it is best, since I don't have a x/r-fold range on these boards anyways.

Not stacking K9+ is a disaster.  Allowing weak draws to hit in an already decent sized pot is not great.  Everything else the guys said :)

One very important point that I didn't see mentioned:

This is a 3way pot on a draw heavy board, which means that a turn bet from either of our opponents (on a blank) both: 

a) will get x/r'd often, and
b) will rarely get two folds

This means that our opponents will likely never bluff with low equity, and will often check back decent equity that can't call a x/r for fear of being blown off their hand.  

In addition to all of the benefits of raising flop, we've now lost the major benefit of slowplaying - getting them to bet lots of turns and rivers with worse.

Most of the hands you'll stack on a brick turn are the same hands you'd have stacked on the flop (and still with excellent equity).  The hands you want to "wait for a safe turn against" such as wrap+fd, nfd+pair, etc may not even bet the turn, so you're giving two hands two free cards on a very draw heavy board.

Ok thank you, i need sometimes thorough ellaboration to accept simplest things, sorries again :) and t very much everyone

its just a simplest play spot everyone has daccordance and yet i got to ask so many questions, i dont have habit to accept things just because everyone said even if they re right until i understand it well, which is not great habit of newbie or begginer ( i would be slightly annoyed if i were to explain , and would tell person just accept it and question it when u get profficiency, advise i cant follow up myself ) because same question  will go through my head all the time while i play and i cant get rid of it

Thank you , understood it now

I don't think you can go too wrong by leading - C/R is obviously the "optimal" play if you have opponents who are willing to comply with you and bet.  With 2 passive players left to act in the hand, I'd always err on the side of betting.  With 2 aggressive players, I'd always go for the C/R.  

One of the key things that I think comes from this discussion is the fact that even when you C/R top set and get called and the turn completes a draw, it's OK to just get it in here given stacks.  To continue the evolution of the discussion, at what stack depth it is NOT okay to just shove the money in on any turn card?  Obviously this is just a straight math question but I'll ask it anyway. 

I think too often what happens to me when in this spot is that I'm playing 8 tables, I C/R the flop and get about 40-50% of my stack in, then the turn completes a draw against 2-3 other opponents and a defeatist attitude of "well, I'm cooked" sets in and then I just kind of C/F weakly because it's "safe" and too hard to keep up with the other tables and work out the math in the moment.  

it is always something that we miss out of big picture and puzzles us, in my case now after all ppl posted, the point where my brain got confused ws i wrongly assumed the turn would go...bet bet call and checkraise by me,  ( and that gave me idea ill get 1 free card, save for all the times draw hit and get bigger value when it missed )

But when Phil said :

hands you want to "wait for a safe turn against" such as wrap+fd, nfd+pair, etc may not even bet the turn, so you're giving two hands two free cards on a very draw heavy board.