I will play it the same as you did.

This is way higher than I play, but I'll take a shot.  I think the right way to think about the flop play is to do exactly what you would do if you actually did hold the nut flush draw. 

So I guess my answer is that your play is good ONLY if you would be check-calling with the nut flush draw and check-raising the heart on the turn.  And I think this makes turn and river play easier too--if you're committed to bluffing with nutblockers (which I guess depends on whether you think cantbeat is able to fold smaller flushes or sets), you'd play paired or bricked turns or rivers exactly as you'd play them if you were holding nut hearts.

I like your line here. I wouldn't check raise this on the flop 100BB deep either (though I guess were 3-betting this hand pre often 100BB deep). I guess you can raise it against a high c-bettor but I don't see the nut flush blocker making a real difference on this flop texture. 

It's hard to comment how you should play different turns. It really comes down to how often he's barreling on given textures and how he views your flop calling range. 

I like the way you played it. If the board pairs I would call once more and then check/decide otr. A lot of players will actually merge their turn barrels here because they know it will either a) get them fold equity against hands that still have equity against their hand b) essentially purchase them a cheap showdown

The problem I see with check/raising otf using the logic that we want to "rep the nut blocker when the flush fills" is that we can a) shut ourselves out of the pot when reraised b) build a big pot with a questionable amount of equity against his peeling range and c) if the flush fills and he happens to hold a lesser flush, I think he's unlikely to surrender given the pot size that has now been created. 

I prefer a xc on turn. If river goes chk chk you win with your straight a lot. If he bets river go for cr.