*It is obviously hard for your opponent to have a hand to call three streets with when you have a monster. The key is to start value betting more thinly, and give yourself the option to sometimes check back monsters.

*Yes, though your example is not that good. In hand you mentioned, the river completes a bunch of straight draws and there are realistic two pair possibilities. Not saying you shouldn't bet, but it's probably not a good example. Betting AK on KT542 is obviously standard.

*Since you play microstakes, you should try to value bet thinly and not bluff too much, because they are very callhappy. On a dry board you can't really have much very often, so he's going to call you down very light. Another reason to make thin value bets and keep him guessing.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*It's not about the pre-flop hands you want to 3-barrel. You decide it post-flop. You usually wan to 3-barrel in spots where you're beat, but where you know your opponent probably doesn't have a hand that can call. This can be because he hasn't shown strength, because you have blockers or a bunch of other reasons. Your questions are not specific enough to build those portions.

*merging is pretty advanced play that you shouldn't employ at microstakes, unless you have some history with your opponent. You need to be able to read hands. A flush beats you? So what heart hands play this way? You beat him, so what calls and how much should you bet to induce a call?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*It is way better to 3-barrel on wet boards, because your opponent will have a lot of equity on earlier streets, but you can blow him off a hand if he doesn't realise it by the river.

For instance, he has QJhh o KJ9hh. He obviously never folds the flop, and probably not on the turn.
Turn 7 and river 3. He have a big hand on the flop, but by the river he has a pretty weak hand.
With a hand like AThh, you have blockers for both straight and flush draws, and your opponent will likely not call the river, even though he doesn't fold the flop or turn.

You should not assume your opponent has ''it'' on dry board when you don't. He'll have you beat and there is not much to scare him, and he'll call you down with mediocre hands more often.
Again, value bet thinly so your opponent can't just call down with any pair+decent kicker. Punish those calls and work bluffs into your range.


Great example from a Dintyo hand review:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GDksGBq2-U (25:20 - 27:40)
Listen to the hands he mentions that will call flop and turn, but rarely call the river (pair+draws that don't get there).

I would say you approach this problem from the wrong direction. You say you realize that you have to included value hands into your three-barrel range. I think they should be there from the start (so yes, include them for sure). Don't think too complicated. Just bet your strong hands. That's usually the easiest way to get money into the pot. I'd suggest to slowplay very rarely.

Another thing: To controll your bluff frequencies- as a general rule of thumb- take hands that have at least 6-10 outs against the stronger hands in your opponents range. That is, straight and flush draws, overcards plus draws (or backdoor draws). This applies to flop and turn, obviously. On the river use blockers.

As a general rule I barrel when one or more of the following happens:

1) On a card that hits my perceived range.

2) On a card that hurts villain's most likely range.

3) On a card that improves my equity.